Fashion Know It All: Silk
Spring’s newest looks borrow from breezy California styles of the ’80s; ELLE’s Fashion Know It All Anne Slowey says it’s time to kick back and relax.
Dear FKIA,
After all the body-con stuff of the past few seasons, what’s with the floaty silks for spring?
When one thinks of clichĆ© California fashion, what comes to mind are silicone-enhanced DDs in bra tops, paired with microshorts or sweats in sweet-tart colors. Throw in a pair of cowboy boots or Uggs, and you’ve got the picture.
But there was a golden era in the ’70s and ’80s when producers’ wives lolled about in flowing, natural-dyed silks in Malibu beach houses amid clouds of hash smoke, killing time until their philandering husbands returned home with cast and crew for an all-night orgy. Notwithstanding the waste of human potential inherent in that version of Hollywood wifedom, the lean ladies of the canyon and beyond had a great look. The flowing silhouette was in part reminiscent of the see-through shifts of the ’20s but had its true origins in the East: in Thailand, whose slippery, sensuous fabrics were imported by people such as Go Silk founder Jerry Hirsch; and perhaps more famously, in Japan, the native land of Issey Miyake, who committed his entire design team to reinventing elegant leisure wear with a modern, arch sensibility.
When the look caught fire on the East Coast in the early ’90s, urbanites lent it a worker-wear vibe, adding utility pockets, reinforced seaming, and wrap-tie details from skydiver and hazmat jumpsuits. I fondly remember the store Parachute in SoHo; its long wrapdresses, drawstring pants, and halterdresses in crumpled silks were an affordable alternative for hip intellectuals and anyone who didn’t want to look like she was married to a junk bond trader.
Today’s approach is more like the California original: easy, simple, and without the proletarian details, though Alex Wang’s jumpsuit with its dropped-tie waist and visible pockets comes close to its utilitarian roots. Marc by Marc Jacobs went the color-block route—another huge trend for spring—to give his midcalf balloon dress a sporty riff, while Derek Lam and Max Azria for BCBG opted for the unadulterated flow of a simple dress and pantsuit.
The trick to wearing these silks is not to adorn them with anything other than a simple sandal or sporty lace-up, maybe a hemp belt or a few chunky ethnic bracelets. Less is more when going au naturel, drugs or no.